The short answer is yes, dog waste is compostable, but there are necessary precautions you must take first to make sure you’re composting the waste properly.
Recently we published a dog blog on reasons why you should pick up your dog’s poop. And the reasons are many. When dog waste is not cleaned up properly it will pollute the ground and surface water, attract flies/pests, create an unsanitary environment for dogs and other animals, which can transmit parasites and other infectious diseases back to humans.
The EPA estimates that the average dog creates about ⅓ of a pound of waste per day – or about 275 pounds per year! Composting your dog’s waste is an inexpensive method for disposing of this waste and it can enhance the environment as well as reduce the amount of waste being added into landfills.
There is a huge misconception that dog waste is not compostable. It very much is – it’s just NOT safe to use in compost that will be used for consumable vegetation. Parasites and bacteria can live in dog waste including E. coli and salmonell along with several types of worms like ringworm and tapeworm. They can live in the soil for years so it’s best to keep your dogs waste away from your gardens or from where your animals can get to it. According to the EPA dog waste is a safe soil additive for revegetation and landscaping when it is composted properly.
You might be wondering, what is composting anyway?
Composting is the controlled breakdown or degradation of organic material into a product known as humus. Composting dog waste is a natural process that requires water, organic matter, air, microbes, and a little human intervention.
BENEFITS OF COMPOSTING DOG WASTE
Each year, tons of pet waste is thrown into trash cans and ends up in sanitary landfills, by composting we can reduce the amount of waste in landfills.
According to the EPA composting can reduce the volume of dog waste by 50 percent.
When you compost dog poop it becomes a nutrient that will improve your yard and trees. If the soil in your yard is lacking organic matter no store-bought fertilizer will get you the results you are looking for in your lawn. However, when you produce good compost you can create a quality soil additive that will improve the condition and fertility in your soil.
If you compost the dog poop correctly you can actually destroy the harmful pathogens that are found in dog waste.
Composting lessens the chances that dog poop will pollute groundwater and streams.
This compost can be used as mulch material and can be a good source of plant nutrients for your potted plants and garden. But, remember it should not be used on plants you intended to consume.
HOW TO START COMPOSTING DOG WASTE
When you begin composting you will need some nitrogen-rich materials and some carbon-rich materials. Nitrogen materials are your “wet” materials, dog waste, green grass clippings and vegetable waste work best. Carbon materials that can be used are things like sawdust, straw or hay, and shredded newspaper.
You will also need two bins, one to contain the composting materials and one to actively compost in, a shovel to turn the compost, a long-stemmed thermometer, and a water supply. Water from a garden hose is okay however, you may want to let the water sit in the sun to get warm before adding it to compost. Cold water will lower the temperature of the compost and we want it to stay warm.
Drill holes in the side of your trash bin that will hold the compost. Put the bin in a sunny, dry area.
As you add dog pop to the bin, cover it with a shovel full of carbon materials. For every two shovels full of dog waste, add at least one shovel full of sawdust or other carbon material. Mix thoroughly after every time you add.
Every few days you can add a shovel full of old compost on to the pile to speed up digestion. If you are just beginning then you can use soil from your garden.
Make sure to keep the pile moist! You should add water in small amounts so they compost has the texture of a wet sponge.
When your bin is full you should cover it so the microbes can get to work.
Now you can start taking the temperature of the compost. When the temperature starts to decline, usually after about two weeks, you should turn the pile.
Cure your finished compost for several months before using it.
This fact sheet from the US department of agriculture gives super helpful advice and professional tips for composting dog waste.
COMPOSTING WITH DOGGY DO GOOD
As you know, our Doggy Do Good® premium pet waste bags are 38% vegetable-based and a great alternative to regular polyethylene plastic bags, which are not compostable and take decades to break down. So feel free to use our bags in your home compost because they are made in part from corn starch (an annually renewable resource) and other bio-based proprietary components. When composted properly, our poop bags are safer for the environment and will break down completely.
So if you choose to compost, and use a poop bag when you are out for a walk, or cleaning up your yard – be sure that poop bag is Certified Home Compostable. That’s the Doggy Do Good® Difference!
Thanks for the reminder Angel, just found mine in the garage and put them by the back door ready for next weeks chilly weather…. Any other tips to consider? Have covered all the outside faucets, relocated some potted plants to a more sheltered location…. Got my outdoor plant covers ready to put on… is there anything you can think of? Thanks
– Leave cabinet doors open where there are pipes next to an outside wall – kitchens, baths, showers, etc – let those faucets drip while temperatures are below freezing. Run pools continuously when temps are below freezing
If u don’t have one u can use a flat head screwdriver and push the lock mechanism one way or the other to open real easy but then u have to use a crescent wrench to shut water off. Remember also everyone should have a main shutoff valve above your hot water tank on the cold side. It should be a ball valve and that also shuts water off to your inside lines(edited)
wherever your hot water tank is you can shut it off there also. There is what they call a ball valve on the cold water line above your hot water tank. Try it so u know you can do it before u actually have to do it that way your not going to be afraid of doing it. Turn a spigot on then turn valve off if you have a upstairs use a lower faucet that way if u HAVE to do it it will bleed all the water from above also. If you have to turn back on at a later time do to fixes then u will have to bleed air out of lines by running the water(edited)
The heater in your home is an essential part of both comfort and safety. Protecting the home from extreme cold temperatures in the winter months is something all homes should b equipped for. Of course, heaters are like any home appliance; they still need the occasional inspection and maintenance. Heaters need to be kept clean, internally and externally, and many types of heaters need to be monitored to ensure they remain safe inside the home.
It’s important for your heater to be in top condition before the cold season blows in each year, but how often is really practical to get your heater inspected? No doubt, you’ve heard everything from “inspect twice a year like clockwork” to “Our heater’s been fine un-inspected for decades.” What is the right frequency of inspections to keep your home safe without going over the top?
Today, we’re here to help with more than a few tips on timing your heater inspections for the best value to the home.
How Often Should Your Heater Be Inspected?
Twice a Year
Annually
Every 2-5 Years
Break-Fix Repairs
How frequent should heater inspection be for your home? It depends on a few varying factors. If your home uses heat a great deal, relies on heat heavily in the winter, or has a finicky heater design – then an inspection every 6 months is not out of the question. Just like going to the dentist so frequently, this preventative work will ensure that any to all problems are caught early and prevented.
For most people, we would broadly recommend annual heater inspections, timed during the early autumn or late spring. Annual heater inspections ensure that your heater is in good condition from year to year and that you never go longer than a year without discovering a lurking problem. It is also a responsible way to own a heater, either warming it up or putting it away each year.
Climate and Importance of the Heater
How often your heater needs to be inspected is also influenced by climate. The amount of use, stress, and importance of your heater during the cold months of the year.
Cold Winters: Inspect Every 6-12 Months
In regions where it snows inches to feet every year, and annual winter storms are the norm, heaters are a vital piece of household equipment. You want your heater inspected at least once a year, maybe twice a year, to ensure the heater is in good condition when you need it – every time you need it.
Mild Winters: Inspect Annually
If you see frost every winter, the heater is still important for keeping the family safe during the yearly freeze. For furnaces, gas heaters, and boilers – common in these regions – you will want an annual inspection with maintenance. This ensures your heater is in good shape and ready to fire back up. Some small malfunctions like a clogged flue or loose seal can be dangerous to the entire house.
An annual inspection ensures your heater is safe to use and/or safe to put away every year.
No Winter: Inspect Every 2-5 Years
Homes in warm climates that see very little winter have homes designed for less heater use. The home HVAC usually features electric-only heaters, and the heaters sometimes aren’t used at all in a year. In these climates, you should schedule an inspection every two to five years – whether it seems like you need it or not.
In this case, the inspection ensures your filter is clean, your wires are aging well, and there’s not too much dust in the system before you fire it up for a cold winter.
The Type of Heater in Your Home
Some heaters need more maintenance than others. Boilers, gas heaters, and furnaces are all potentially dangerous if poorly maintained, and therefore should be inspected regularly to make sure they are still safe to run. Lying dormant during the summer may allow a heater to fall into disrepair, as can constant use during the winter.
Electric heaters require less maintenance as they do not use volatile materials, but still need to be inspected periodically to clear dust, check fans, and ensure the quality of the wires and elements inside.
Seasonal Safe Maintenance
Before Switching the Heater Each Year
You know the burning-dust smell when you turn on the heater for the first time every year? That’s the mildest possible problem that the first heat-up can cause. Clogged flues, gad and pilot light issues, sediment in your boiler, and frayed wires can all potentially cause disaster in the first cold month of the year.
Getting an inspection before your first use of the heater is a smart move to ensure safety, and that heat will be there when you need it.
Before Shutting Down the Heater in Spring
Some types of heater (and older heaters) should be shut down and maintained at the end of each cold season. Your furnace can be cleaned out, checked, and closed for the summer so that it’s ready to go again next fall. Boilers can be cleared of debris and oil buildup before sitting unused for months. Old appliances can be checked to see if the winter season did any wear-and-tear damage.
Make Use of a Warranty
Often, heater installations come with a handy warranty. The warranty may just be for product quality, but it might include discounted or complimentary maintenance for the first few years of ownership. If you have a warranty for maintenance, make use of it. Your HVAC pros make these offers for a reason – to give you the best possible heater performance and extend the overall lifespan of the heater with good early maintenance.
Dual-Purpose AC and Heater Inspections
Last but not least, remember that your heater inspections can be a full-service HVAC inspection and maintenance visits. HVAC inspections in the spring can get your AC ready for summer and put your heater away after a winter of hard work. Inspections in the fall can make sure your AC is in good shape after a hot summer and prepare your heater to fire up before the first truly cold night of the year.
How frequently should you have a heater inspected? The best answer is about once a year, no matter what climate you live in. This ensures that no issues are overlooked for longer than a year. If you have extreme weather or a high-maintenance heating system, schedule twice a year inspections instead. Time your one or two visits with the most important season for your home – either before the winter chill or before the summer heat.
Nothing beats enjoying your fireplace on a cold winter night. It’ll keep you warm and looks stunningly beautiful. However, if you don’t follow a few chimney maintenance tips, it might not be safe to use your fireplace.
Maintaining your fireplace and chimney is crucial to keeping your home safe when using your fireplace. Without proper attention and cleaning, you’re susceptible to fires and water damage. Plus, you can save money on your energy bills.
These 8 chimney maintenance tips will help ensure that your fireplace and chimney are well taken care of and working properly. Don’t worry about anything because Vertical Chimney Care is here to help!
1. Have a Functioning Fireplace Damper
Your fireplace damper makes a huge difference in your home’s energy efficiency. When you’re not using your fireplace, the dampers should be closed to keep outside drafts from getting into your home through the chimney.
If your damper isn’t closing, it’s going to reflect on your energy bills. It’ll be much harder for your furnace or air conditioner to achieve your desired temperature because they’ll constantly be in battle with the drafts. They’ll end up using more power to heat or cool your home and the price of your electric and heating bills will skyrocket.
When you use your fireplace, the dampers need to be open. If your dampers are broken and can’t open, you can’t use your fireplace. The damper will trap the smoke in your home causing you to breathe in carbon monoxide which is very bad for your health.
Having your dampers fixed or replaced when they’re not working properly is crucial. When getting a replacement fireplace damper, make sure it fits properly – it must be snug and not have any gaps.
2. Make Sure your Chimney is Waterproof
Moisture and the elements can be major problems for your chimney. They can weaken the structural integrity of your chimney, cause mold and even damage the walls and floor around your fireplace. You’ll need to make sure your chimney waterproofing, chase cover, crown and flashing are all functioning properly.
Start by waterproofing your chimney. Adding a water sealant to the outside of your chimney will prevent moisture from breaking down the bricks and mortar and sneaking into you home.
Obviously there’s a large hole at the top of your chimney which allows smoke to escape. You don’t want to seal that hole but you also don’t want rain and snow from getting into your home. What can you do?
For prefabricated chimneys, chase covers are a great addition. It covers the top while still allowing smoke to escape through a small pipe. Most prefabricated chimneys come with galvanized steel chase covers which have a tendency to rust. Replace it with a stainless steel, copper or aluminum chase cover so you don’t have to worry about rust again.
For masonry chimneys, you’ll need to get a crown. It’s a concrete cover that prevents anything from getting into your home. Like chase covers, the smoke escapes through a pipe coming from the crown.
The flashing is where the chimney meets the roof. Without a sealant going around the meeting point, moisture can seep into your home. Make sure your flashing is in good condition.
3. Know When to Have Your Chimney Swept
No matter what type of fireplace you have, you’ll need your chimney swept in order to keep your home safe. The question is, how often do you need a chimney sweeping?
While there’s no specific amount of time to get your chimney cleaned, there are a few things to consider. The amount you use your fireplace will determine how often you have your chimney swept. Once the chimney liner has 1/8″ of soot, it needs to be cleaned.
If you’re not sure how to measure soot, there’s an easy metric you can use – your chimney should be cleaned every 50 burns. This differs from the type of fireplace you have. For instance, a gas log fireplace needs to be swept less often than a wood burning fireplace. About 50 burns is a good place to start.
4. Gas Log Fireplaces Are Better for Your Chimney Than Wood Burning Ones
This is one of the more unique chimney maintenance tips. Replacing a wood burning fireplace with a gas log fireplace could be safer for your home. Gas logs burn much greener than real logs – they produce a less harmful smoke and are extremely energy efficient. In fact, they have a 92%-99% efficiency rating vs the typical 60%-80%.
Not only is that safer for the efficiency, but it’s safe for you. Since the gas log fireplace is burning up to 99% of the gas used, there’s less soot in your chimney. That means you can go longer between chimney sweeps and you’re less at risk of fires.
Don’t think you’re sacrificing beauty for efficiency. For a time, gas log fireplaces lacked the elegance of a wood burning fireplace, but things have changed. Now, the hand painted, ceramic gas logs are made to look identical wood logs.
5. Make Sure Your Mortar Joints and Bricks Aren’t Crumbling
The bricks and mortar joints of your chimney play a crucial role in avoiding water damage inside of your home. However, they begin to crack and crumble over time and give moisture an entrance into your home.
Chimney tuckpointing is the act of repairing mortar. If you notice that your mortar is crumbling and the bricks are starting to become loose, then you’re in need of chimney tuckpointing.
Make sure you get a waterproofing sealant for your chimney stack. This will help keep the mortar and bricks protected from moisture.
6. Have Your Chimney Inspected Once Per Year
Just looking at your chimney isn’t enough to spot problems – some are underlying and need a professional to find them. Having a chimney inspection once per year is crucial to ensure your chimney’s safety.
There are three levels of chimney inspection to consider:
Level 1: used for chimneys that seem to be functioning properly. Examines all readily accessible portions
Level 2: best for homes that are changing how they use their chimney or the heating source. Required before selling a property. Includes everything in a level 1 plus attic, crawlspace and exterior inspections
Level 3: most in depth inspection. Includes everything in inspection 1 and 2 plus checking more concealed areas. This inspection is for chimneys where there’s a major problem that needs to be addressed
These Chimney Maintenance Tips Will Save You Money and Keep Your Home Safe
There are many different chimney and home maintenance tips but these are our 6 favorites. They cover everything from minor chimney inspections to completely changing how you use your fireplace.
If you own and operate any type of fireplace, you must practice frequent chimney maintenance. Like motor vehicles, both fireplace and appliance utility flues routinely need servicing over their lifespan. While we would all like to avoid the expense and hassle, maintenance on your chimney is inevitable and imperative. Failure to do so puts your system, home, and family at risk. This blog post will set you and your heating systems up for success by answering the most notable chimney maintenance frequently asked questions.
People often look for the cheapest and most convenient options available. Of course, that can sometimes work effectively with regular upkeep or minor repairs; however, sufficient knowledge and skills aren’t nearly as readily available when it comes to the inner workings of fireplace systems. That’s why you must choose Certified Professionals and we’re here to help.
The most essential way to maintain your chimneys is by having them inspected at least once per year. If you’ve recently purchased a new stainless steel liner system, then it likely comes with a warranty. Depending on the manufacturer, a chimney liner warranty could be 10-20 years.
At Full Service, our stainless steel liner systems are under a lifetime warranty with professional installation. An annual inspection is a requirement to fulfill the liner warranty claims if needed.
How Often Does Your Fireplace Need Maintenance
A fireplace and its chimney flue need swept and inspected at least once per year. Please keep in mind that this is only the minimum recommendation for the proper upkeep of your burning system, no matter what type of fuel you use (gas or wood). It’s also true for any gas appliance that has a flue pipe which also requires regular maintenance for performance and safety.
Other systems that need annual cleaning are gas furnaces or water heaters, and wood stoves. The same is true for oil burners, but we don’t see too many of those in our Midwestern area!
How Can I Tell if My Chimney Needs Cleaning?
Suppose your fireplace is experiencing poor fire performance, animal entry, a strong campfire smell, or oil spots on the walls. In that case, it’s a definitive sign that you need to schedule a professional inspection and cleaning. Failure to act on these warning signs can lead to dangerous situations in your home, such as fires and carbon monoxide entry.
You must be able to identify these warning signs successfully. So let’s take a closer look at each sign:
Poor Fire Performance- If your fires aren’t burning as efficiently, or starting one is a struggle, the fire isn’t receiving adequate oxygen levels. Your flue could be clogged, or a specific part isn’t functioning correctly.
Animal Entry- Do you hear animal noises coming from your flue area? Do you see nesting on the top? If yes, you need to hire a professional to remove it. Animals and their nests can prevent proper airflow and even cause fires.
Odors- Campfires are a comforting smell only when they’re not near your fireplace! This is a tell-tale sign that dangerous creosote is building up within your system.
Oil Spots- Oil spots on your walls isn’t just visually unattractive, it’s a clear sign that creosote is present.
The average cost of an annual chimney cleaning is $200 to $350. Some companies are more expensive than others, but the prices vary primarily due to the type of system being serviced.
If your systems showing signs of malfunction or damage your local certified sweep may suggest that you get it fixed or replaced. To promote transparency during inspections, our technicians take photos and videos to ensure you understand what’s going on within your flue where the bulk of issues are hidden from the view of hearth and home owners.
How Do You Sweep a Chimney?
The process of sweeping a chimney goes in these general steps:
A full inspection of the system.
Place a drop cloth around the cleaning area.
Put on all protective equipment.
Take out any hindering objects from the fireplace.
Start sweeping the flue with the appropriate tools while the HEPA vacuum is simultaneously on.
Finally, brush and vacuum around the firebox area.
WARNING: Please keep in mind that this is a VERY brief overview of the process. There is far more to sweeping than just merely cleaning out your flue. Performing these steps is much more complicated and requires extensive knowledge of chimney types, fireplace types, professional equipment, and sweeping practices.
Can I Clean My Flue from the Bottom?
Yes, in most cases, you can absolutely have your chimney cleaned from the bottom. Sweeping from the top can be dangerous and a lot of work. You’ll be required to safely climb a ladder, walk across the roof, disassemble the cap, and clean the flue using the correct methods and equipment.
Sweeping from the below is just as detailed in terms of technical knowledge. Still, it’s much easier if you don’t feel comfortable on a roof.
As we said before, you need to schedule an inspection before doing chimney maintenance and repair work. But if you insist on sweeping your fireplace, we recommend that you clean from the bottom.
Can I Clean My Chimney Myself?
Yes, if you’re a competent DIYer, you technically could clean your flue yourself. But even if you’re a DIY expert in all things, you should still hire a professional to conduct an annual inspection and cleaning.
While DIY typically implies that you’ll save on price, professional sweeps utilize various industry tools and specialty equipment during their cleanings.
There are also serious safety concerns involved. While cleaning, exposure to creosote and other dangerous carcinogens is constant. In some cases, sweeping from the roof is the only option. That’s dangerous and scary for people of all ages!
A few of the tools and equipment needed for proper cleaning
For more detailed information on the considerations involved with cleaning and chimney maintenance tips, check out this blog post.
How Often Should I Clean My Chimney?
Your chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once a year according to the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) and other veteran professionals. It should also always be swept when any amount of glazed creosote is present.
Experts worldwide have told customers that exact statement a thousand times. And we’ll continue to say it because it’s an essential aspect of wood-burning and gas fireplace chimney maintenance. As a fireplace owner, you should follow this maintenance tip religiously.
Certified Sweep cleaning from the bottom
If you use a wood-burning fireplace year-round, your system may need cleaned 2 to 3 times per year. Of course, the more fires started, the more creosote that will be built-up. Spending a couple hundred dollars on inspections and cleaning is better than worrying about putting your family and home at risk.
Do Cleaning Logs Really Work?
While the CSIA gave their accepted product status to chimney cleaning logs, they don’t really work as an effective cleaner. It may sound great, but $15 cleaning logs are not, and never will be, a substitute for hiring a professional sweep.
Cleaning logs won’t properly clean your system, but that doesn’t mean they’re useless. As you can read more in our creosote sweeping blog, they can play a vital role in the chimney maintenance process. To minimize creosote follow these maintenance tips:
Burn wood with 15 to 25 percent moisture content
Follow manufacturer and technician instructions.
Utilize cleaning logs every few dozen fires.
SUGGESTED READING: We have an entire post dedicated to this if you’re interested to learn more.
Is it Okay to Leave a Gas Fireplace on All Night?
You should never leave a gas fireplace on all night. We understand that your fireplace provides warmth and comfort throughout the house, but it can quickly turn hazardous overnight.
Natural gas, propane, and wood-burning fireplaces produce a poisonous gas called carbon monoxide, commonly known as the silent killer. It’s a fatal gas that’s odorless, colorless, and can fill up a room in a hurry.
To ensure carbon monoxide safety, you need to educate yourself on direct vent, ventless, and insert run-time specifications. Those run-times vary mainly depending on the manufacturer’s instructions and local authorities having jurisdiction. But no matter what, never leave a fire running in an unattended room.
Gas Fireplace
You can become an expert on all things fireplaces, yet, accidents can still happen. Leaving your gas fireplace on overnight is a possible one. That’s why you need at least one smoke and carbon monoxide detector in a room where a fireplace is present.
What Causes a Furnace to Leak Carbon Monoxide?
If carbon monoxide is leaking through your furnace, that likely means that your heat exchanger is cracked.
A heat exchanger is a metal shield that distributes air from the furnace. When the furnace heats up, the metal shield expands. When the furnace cools down, the metal shield contracts. As this keeps happening over time, cracks can develop within the shield, causing carbon monoxide to leak out.
You can avoid potential furnace carbon monoxide leaks by scheduling annual inspections, replacing air filters, and checking your carbon monoxide detectors.FURNACE SERVICE
Can Your Chimney Catch Fire?
Chimneys can catch fire, and, unfortunately, they are far too familiar. Over 25,000 chimney fires happen per year. Many of which led to hundreds of thousands of dollars in damage to your home. Not only can they destroy your system, but they can also ruin your home. They truly epitomize why you should take chimney maintenance seriously.
These fires typically occur due to an abundance of creosote build-up or debris catching fire inside the flue. Restricted air, improperly seasoned firewood, and cool temperatures in the system encourage creosote build-up.
Other than chimney fires obviously being extremely destructive, a significant issue is that most of them go undetected. Check out this blog post to learn more about chimney fire warning signs.
Aftermath of a chimney flue fire
Summary
Hopefully, for those who made it through this blog, you now understand the severity of proper chimney maintenance. If you put off an oil change for too long, your engine will eventually run less efficiently, wear out, and possibly, break down. The same is true for maintaining your chimney. Putting off or finding quick-fixes for professional inspections and cleanings is extremely risky.
To summarize, if you frequently use your fireplace, wood-stove, or any other system, proper maintenance is key. And if you aren’t an expert technician, hire a certified professional to help maintain it. If you aren’t sure or confident about something, hire a professional. If you even lightly suspect an issue is occurring within your system, hire a professional. We promise that it’s not worth the risk!
At the most basic, fundamental level, an annual AC inspection and preventative maintenance visit should consist of:
Simple integrity tests for your thermostat, wiring, AC shutoff, and blower shutoff
Visual inspection of electrical components, tightening connections as needed
Visual inspection of supply registers and return vents, cleaning blockages as needed
Replacement of air filters at the return grilles or indoor unit
Cleaning/flushing of drain line plus visual inspection of drain pan and switch
Testing for all limit and safety controls
Cleaning and inspection of the condensate pump, if you’ve got one
Inspecting/testing capacitors and contactors, noting any corrosion or rust
Cleaning of the condenser coil
Visual inspection of all lines and coils paying particular attention to any disconnects within ten feet of the unit and the integrity of suction line insulation
Testing the compressor amp draw, condenser fan motor amp draw, and blower motor amp draw
Verification that the refrigerant charge meets manufacturer specifications
Checking the temperature drop across the evaporator coil
Testing the system’s static pressure to identify opportunities to improve airflow
Visual inspection of exposed ductwork for air leaks and kinks
If your AC inspection doesn’t include all of the above, it’s not a complete inspection.
At PV, our inspection does cover all of these maintenance, testing, and analysis tasks. You might have noticed that we include a lot of things that other HVAC contractors ignore. The static pressure test is particularly valuable since the results can help you extend the life of your equipment. Most don’t bother with it. We do, though.
Without an inspection this thorough, you might end up with a less-than-optimal AC and heating situation. We don’t want that, and neither do you.
So, how can you get the complete inspection this spring? By beginning a service agreement with PV! Every agreement includes two inspections per year plus a lot of valuable extras.
Service agreements are a win/win. Here’s why.
We like HVAC service agreements because they allow us to build long-term relationships and help people maintain safe, comfortable home environments. But it’s our clients who benefit the most. In addition to knowing that your HVAC equipment is operating at peak performance, you get extras like…
No service charges for maintenance performed as a result of inspection findings
15% discount on any type of repair
New 1″ filters for you to keep at home and change out every few months
10-year labor warranty when you have us install a new system
You get all of that plus the two yearly inspections – one for the cooling season and one for the heating season. It’s a $700 value, but our current price is just $189/year for one system plus $96 for additional systems.
It’s going to be a hot summer. Why chance it?
It’s not exactly going out on a limb to predict that this summer will be a hot one for Atlanta.
90+ degree highs, 90%+ humidity, sunshine, sweat, mosquitos… If you’ve lived here a while, you know how it goes.
The last thing you want is for some annoying problem – a busted capacitor, say – to get between you and your indoor comfort when it’s 95 degrees outside. Getting an AC inspection is like going to the dentist twice a year or getting your car serviced now and then. It’s preventative. And the easiest problems to solve are the ones that never become problems in the first place.
Assuming it’s done right, that’s exactly what your annual AC inspection offers: a comfortable, problem-free summer.
One plant in your hydroponic system gathering mold or mildew can mean the difference between a blooming, blossoming harvest and an unhealthy, sick garden. Don’t ignore the speckles of dusty mildew on your plants—do your part to fix the problem and keep it from getting worse. Acting quickly to save your harvest from algae, mildew, and fungus can save you from throwing entire plants into the garbage bin. Learn how to eliminate and prevent mildew on hydroponic plants and keep your crop safe from any fungal menace.
Immediate Solutions
If you’ve noticed a dusting of white mildew on the leaves of your plants, you need to act quickly before it spreads. Severe cases of powdery mildew can prevent your plant from photosynthesizing and can harm any fruits or vegetables if it reaches them. Even if you notice just a few specks, it could turn into a full blanket by the end of the week if you don’t address it.
Here are a few ways to deal with plants afflicted with powdery mildew:
Natural Fungicides
While investing in a chemical fungicide may seem like the easy way out, you may put your plants in danger. Chemicals are also harmful to helpful insects, if you keep any, such as ladybugs. Make a few different at-home fungicides so the mildew can’t build a resistance. Do your best to wipe the most afflicted leaves with a cloth—avoid simply blowing the dusty mildew off to prevent its spread to the rest of your crop.
The most common fungicide recipe includes one gallon of water, a tablespoon of baking soda, a tablespoon of vegetable oil, and a teaspoon of dish soap. If you use dish soap with oil in it, you may not need to add the vegetable oil.
Another method involves any kind of milk—even skim milk. Mix 12 fluid ounces of milk with 28 fluid ounces of water.
For any water-based solution you make, use the same water that you use to mix your hydroponic solution to avoid throwing off your garden. Pour whichever homemade solution you create into a clean spray bottle. Before spraying all affected leaves, test the spray on one leaf first. If it burns or injures the leaf, you may need to alter your solution.
Cut the Afflicted Area
If your mildew problem is currently limited to one lower area of a plant’s leaf, you can cut the tip of the leaf off to prevent its spread. You can make cutting problematic, powdery leaves part of your pruning process. After you prune the mildew away, focus on preventing it from coming back.
Move the Afflicted Plant if Severe
Once you’ve done all you can for the plant, it may be time to make the hard decision to isolate it to save the rest of your harvest. If the mildew has reached the fruit of the plant or caused rot on your leaves, separate it from the rest and dispose of it. If you believe you can still salvage it, keep it in a quarantined area far away from your other plants and treat it however you see fit.
Mildew Prevention
With your powdery mildew under control, it’s time to make sure it never happens again. Go down the checklist of these essential mildew prevention steps to ensure that your future crops don’t suffer the harmful effects of mildew:
Ventilate Your Greenhouse
Mildew struggles to grip your plants’ leaves if there’s a steady breeze in the greenhouse. Make sure that there’s airflow in the growing area by installing vents and placing fans. Prevent bugs from getting in through the vents by covering them with a screen. Oscillating fans will keep dust from settling on the leaves in the first place.
Control the Humidity
Fungi and mildew require high humidity to form—that’s why powdery mildew is typically only an issue during the late summer, or in humid greenhouses. Plants, however, only need around 50 percent humidity to grow and remain healthy. Keep a humidity meter on hand and dehumidify the room if it gets too humid.
Regular Cleaning
If you don’t clean your plants’ containers after every harvest, you’re doing your future crops a disservice. Clean them thoroughly and use the homemade fungicide solutions for a deeper clean.
Mildew can also grow on things within the room that aren’t a part of your garden. Clean up dead leaves and any puddles on the floor as soon as you see them to prevent fungus growth.
Don’t Bring the Outside in
When you own both a hydroponic and an outside soil garden, it’s important to keep the two completely separate from each other. Don’t use any tools from outside in your sterile hydroponic gardening environment—they may have spores or pests on them from the outside that will ravage the fragile hydroponic plants. You shouldn’t even wear the same shoes that you use to garden outside while in a greenhouse.
Sticky Gnat Traps
If you notice that your garden has a gnat problem, you need to handle it right away. Gnats love to eat your plants’ roots and the fungi that grow from mildew. Where there’s a fungus, you’ll soon find these tiny pests and their larvae. Set up sticky traps around the greenhouse to capture the stragglers and look into natural pesticide solutions for larger infestations.
Stop Algae From Growing
While algae itself isn’t a huge problem for your plants, when it rots, it becomes food for gnat larvae. Prevent algae from building up in your plants’ containers by purchasing solid colors—never clear, transparent plastic. At FloraFlex, our hydroponic grow kits come with lids that further block light from coming in without hindering the growth of your plants.
Dispose of Infected Plants Properly
When there’s nothing left to do but dispose of an afflicted plant, make sure that you discard it correctly to avoid future mildew infections. Don’t compost a plant suffering from mold or mildew—bag it up and throw it away. Be careful not to disturb the mildew-stricken leaves so you don’t blow the dusty mildew all over your garden. Scrub all remains of the plant from its container and disinfect with your fungicide solution.
Mildew is a common problem for any hydroponic gardener. Don’t feel discouraged if mildew infects your plants—approach the problem with a cool head and with the knowledge that there are ways to eliminate and prevent mildew on hydroponic plants. Connect with the FloraFlex community on social media today and get in touch with plenty of experienced growers who can help you with any mold or mildew problem.
